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Frequently Asked Questions
F.A.Q.
Boards used in carpentry and what they are recommended for
SOLID or EDGE-GLUED WOOD: Formed by joining multiple solid wood strips, hence the name “Edge-glued.” Recommended for both interior and exterior use with appropriate treatments. Maintenance must be considered as solid wood is delicate and must be treated to always look its best. Note: Keep in mind that available sizes are limited and there is a risk of WARPING over time.
PREMIUM THREE-LAYER BOARD: Formed by 3 layers of solid natural wood. It could be classified between (SOLID AND PLYWOOD). Its recommended use is in construction for formwork. Note: Currently used in decoration, giving soul to quality products. E.g.: WALL PANELING.
PLYWOOD: Board made of thin layers of natural wood adhered with resins under high pressure. Its recommended use is for elements requiring good strength or those partially exposed to atmospheric agents. E.g.: Stair treads, walls, heavy storage…
HONEYCOMB CORE BOARD: “Honeycomb” core or interior. It has established itself strongly in the market due to its excellent quality/price ratio and adaptability. Solid wood perimeter frame, faces and edges with MDF board. Finished with varnishes for plywood and lacquers for MDF. Its recommended use is especially for doors (semi-solid) and large, thick elements, reducing weight and allowing for greater thicknesses in furniture without excessively increasing material costs. Note: In the market, you will see furniture with great thicknesses that catch your eye… It’s possible!!! That table you’ve always wanted, without it weighing tons or risking it bending.
MDF: “Reconstructed wood.” Wood fiber board combined with wax and resin, joined at high temperature and pressure. Generally used in interior carpentry. Primarily in closets, drawers, and kitchen fronts.
PARTICLE BOARD: Along with MDF, it is a worthy substitute for solid wood as a primary material for furniture manufacturing. Made with wood chips and resin, applying heat and pressure until the board’s solidity is formed. Its recommended use is generally in interior carpentry. Primarily in closets and doors, as it offers good performance at affordable prices. I’m leaving this link for more information. Link.
OSB: Joining of flakes larger than “particle board” to form layers. These flakes are joined to one another, alternating direction. Effect similar to that achieved in plywood boards. They offer great strength. Its recommended use is for construction, paneling, and insulation.
Board coatings
VENEERED, LAMINATE, OR MELAMINE.
VENEERED: Covering a surface (PLYWOOD-MDF-PARTICLE BOARD-HONEYCOMB) with natural wood adhered at high pressure.
LAMINATE: Covering a surface (PLYWOOD-MDF-PARTICLE BOARD-HONEYCOMB) with cellulose sheets impregnated with thermosetting resins at high pressure. Also known as the old “Formica.” HPL high-pressure laminate.
MELAMINE: “Laminate” treatment but at low pressure. Excellent option if you are looking for affordable products with a programmed lifespan. E.g.: Rental housing.
Types of laminates
To make a clear choice, we must be clear about the needs, expectations, and budget
HPL: Very resistant.
CPLv: Resistant. Subjected to low pressure.
CHPL: Very resistant. New generation panel, performance similar to HPL.
Laminate or veneer
APPEARANCE: Veneer retains the natural characteristics of wood and laminate imitates it, albeit very skillfully.
RANGE VARIETY: Natural veneer is limited to wood species (BEECH, OAK, CHERRY…) without variation in tones, in natural and lacquered versions. Laminate panels also have the option to reproduce material effects (Stone, marble, or concrete).
MAINTENANCE: Laminates are easy to maintain, while veneered panels need specific care for real wood.
DURABILITY: Normally, laminates are more durable than natural wood. They maintain their good appearance without treatments.
For more information, here is a very interesting link: Differences between furniture, laminates, and veneers.
